Jordan


 
Having experienced the poverty of Egypt and the comparative sophistication of Israel, my first impressions of Jordan were that it was somewhere in between. From what I could pick up, Jordan is kind of like the Switzerland of the Middle East, getting along with everyone and seeming to benefit both economically and socially as a result. The tourism industry having suffered a little and just starting to pick up again, we encountered friendly security guards, quick to make jokes about where our guns were hiding, and bombs hidden in our laptops, and everywhere we went, people would wave at the bus or greet us with “Welcome” as we walked up the street. Our guide commented that Jordanians are well educated in general, and over half the population speak English, even though it isn’t an official language or the first language of any of their neighbouring countries.
We arrived in Amman for our first night of food and were treated to a delicious meal where they kept bringing out plates of deliciousness and I was ready to move in. We headed back to the hotel with full bellies ready to take on Petra the following day.
On the way to Petra, we stopped at a church, where they had discovered a map from ancient times of the whole region, made as a mosaic on the floor. Apparently, it has been used to locate several archaeological sites, and it was incredible to see the attention to detail, and how aspects of it are still being unpacked to learn new things about the way of life back then. Our last stop on the way was a monastery on Mount Nebo, with incredible views of Jericho and Jerusalem, where God took Moses to see the Promised Land before he died. Again, the artwork of the ancient mosaics was so impressive, the time and attention to detail to find the right stones in the right colours – I would never have the patience!
Upon arrival to Petra, we went out for some more food (yay food!) and then had Petra by Night, where you walk down to the Treasury Building (which was never actually a treasury) of the ancient city of Petra by candlelight, then we sat and listened to someone play a wooden flute and then someone did a little speech. It was a really nice experience to see the old carved buildings and a little of the city at night-time, completely different to how it looked during the day.
The following day, our guide took us on a tour of Petra, we saw the old tombs of the rich people, the poor people, and the soldiers, as well as some of the houses and the marketplace of Petra. 
It was fascinating to hear a little of the history, they were basically the only group of people the Romans couldn’t defeat no matter how many times they tried or how many people they sent in. It was quite the embarrassment for the “Great Roman Empire”, so in the end, the only way the Romans could beat them was by building a highway with Police stations and rest stops every 5 miles for the people they would trade with to stop them from trading. 
Even then, they laid siege to Petra and blocked off their water supply and still the people of Petra didn’t come out of their town, as they had a secret system of ceramic pipes to supply an alternative water supply. In the end, the Romans found someone they could bribe to tell them about the pipes and then that was how they were defeated. I always like a good story of the little guy outsmarting the bully with a bit of ingenuity.
By far the most traumatising moment of my trip was while we were waiting for some of the group there was this beautiful dog, who looked like a border collie and reminded me of my pet dog, except she was skin and bones, and looked like she’d recently had a litter, and was missing the skin off her nose. We had previously fed her a little sausage and she looked so happy for a minute there with her wagging tale. Another dog, a male, came over and started attacking her, but I was surprised to see her holding her own, despite the state she was in. At least that was until a group of nearby males all came over and started ripping into her. I don’t know what I would have done if our guide hadn’t started throwing rocks at them to make them run off. I watched her limp off up the side of the mountain, hoping desperately there was somewhere safe for her to go.
After wandering around the city for a bit, we walked up to a monastery, where we got to experience three different spots that were all “the best view in Jordan”. Having done a lot of walking and taken in a lot of sunshine and said no to a lot of people wanting to give me a very good price, I made my way back to the hotel for an afternoon nap. 
With our last full day in Jordan ahead of us, we stopped for a little nosey at Little Petra, where the people of Petra used to come to do their trading, outside of their city to protect it. Some of the original painting could still be seen on the roof of one of the buildings, and the colour of the rock formations was amazing. 
We then continued to Wadi Rum, where we were to stay the night in a desert Bedouin camp. We got out of the bus and finished our journey on the back of utes, stopping for some Bedouin tea on the way.
The camp itself was beautiful, surrounded by desert sand and rock formations. Our dinner was the Bedouin version of hangi, meat, rice, and vegetables cooked in the ground, so delicious and an enjoyable way to finish off our travels together as a group. 
We were then treated to some traditional music and the opportunity to dance with a bunch of school boys from Amman who were there on a school trip. I declined the offer (such a surprise, I know), but was quite content taking photos and videos of everyone else. It is amazing how all cultural and racial barriers are broken down so quickly by the universal language of dance, and I thoroughly enjoyed sitting back and taking it all in.
So at this exact moment, I am sitting in the Amman airport waiting for my first of three flights back to London, with mixed emotions. I have so many moments, memories, taonga, to carry with me from this trip, one I was privileged to share with an incredible group of people from so many backgrounds and stories, but all with a common love for travel. 
Getting this morning I was very one-tracked and determined to hold it together as I said goodbyes while avoiding eye contact. The places I have been have all left their unique mark, and I feel all the richer for the experience. I would like to say I am excited to get back to London, and there are some things I am looking forward to for sure – my bed, a washing machine, ditching the suitcase, a nice warm high-pressure shower. 
At the same time all I can think is how I wish my destination were New Zealand instead of London. Wishing that I was going to see my nephews and nieces on Monday instead of the children who will be filling my classroom. But no matter, next weekend is Amsterdam and the tulip festival, and many more adventures to look forward to.
To finish off with, a quote from the Queen of Jordan, one of my new found heroes, "We are stronger when we listen and smarter when we share."



Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Cairo

Israel

My 29th birthday